Tuesday, September 27, 2022

Masa Paper Sunflower continued

Finished Sunflower

After gluing down the paper and drying it, I did a few more details. I wanted it to appear to be in a field of sunflowers, but I didn't want those to be important. So I painted them in, but did not ink any of it.

I also wanted to try out some water soluble fine tip pens, which I inked onto the dark green leaves, then brushed over them with water. 





I want to brag on my class, so here are some results from students. Enjoy!

Dariel did a tree from her back yard. This went up so quickly! 


This is Jackie's wolf. The log/ground underneath was just dry-brushed over the wrinkles in the paper. She did such a great job, using less realistic colors.


Judy made her background look a bit more impressionistic and subtle, which complements the foreground sunflowers.


Pat's not finished, but I like the way she dry-brushed the background to make the flower stand out, taking advantage of masa paper's natural wrinkles.


Vicki's abstract sunflowers in the lower background are really effective in giving
a feeling of depth.


Barb used some super saturated paints from Plaza called ViViva Color Sheets. It's actually more like a staining watercolor ink, and the colors are gorgeously vivid.

Dolores did magnolia blossoms, and they look so loose and amazing, like she's channeling Monet.


Dorothy didn't like the "patchiness" of her background, and pulled it all together with a light
magenta wash. 


Shirley started a basket of veggies from her daughter's garden. Not finished yet,
but looking good.


Rita, from Friday's class, decided to try non-traditional colors, and it looks like
it's made from stained glass.


There were a few more that I didn't get photos of, so sorry. I love how masa paper lends itself to so many subjects. 

Friday, September 16, 2022

Pen and Ink Masa Sunflower - part 1

 Masa paper is great fun for me. I usually don't do pen and ink on it, but I decided I wanted to do it with this sunflower.

For posts on masa paper see these blogs:

June 2, 2016 Basic Masa Paper instructions

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/1005441405994987198

Sep 8, and Sep 13 of 2019--Elephants mounted and wrapped on gallery board

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/7342402014232530927

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/4639615821270812424

Jan of 2019 (gluing it with YeS paste)

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/406675106774625507

Mar 5, 2021--wrecked boat

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/5268270820306387448

Mar 12 2020--Cocoa set

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/2792332619632550579

June 10, 2021 --using pastels with masa paper

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/2357452782375511562

Nov 15, 2021-sunset scene

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/8812132386157895665/3614939673911587507

For a change, I penned in my sketch with a fine tipped sharpie, or any water-proof ink, before I wrinkled and wet the paper. Then I wrinkled the paper, crunching in into a ball, and got it wet. I set it on a puppy training pad (I call them doggie diapers) to absorb the water and to allow me to move the paper without tearing it.

Using a large, soft brush, I applied 3 primaries in a random way. My goal is a soft-edged wash that is a light value. I don't want it patchy, but I want the colors to run together so you can't tell where one begins and another ends. You apply the colors gently, because this paper is fragile while wet, and it will "pill" if rubbed to hard and too often. (See the link to Basic Masa instructions above if you have any questions)

Let your background dry. This may take a while. You want the colors to blend into the cracks in the paper. You can blow it with a blow dryer after the color has reacted as much as you like.

Some people like to adhere the paper to a support (watercolor paper, board, canvas, etc.) as soon as the first wash dries and before they begin to paint. I like to paint as much as I can with the paper crinkled, and save just the final details and inking for after I glue it down. (parts that I can't control until it's glued) That way I get as much effect from the crinkled paper as I can first. 

This is the point where we left it in class. Following are the next few steps, but I plan to do these in class. 

After it is completely dry, you can begin to paint the flower, again using gentle strokes. I want to take my time with this, taking advantage of the underpainting to add interest to the flower. I used hansa yellow and quin gold for the flower petals,  and quin gold, blue, and magenta in the stem. The reason I don't paint the stem with a green is that I enjoy the more subtle play of colors as the masa paper allows them to blend. I'm not concerned at this point with trying to put on the final layers, just playing with the paint.

You can get creative with the colors. Who says it needs to be yellow?

After this first part is painted, I let it dry, and go over it a little more. I painted in the dark center using quin burnt orange and ultramarine blue. 

So, it's not done yet. More next week. 






Monday, September 5, 2022

Yupo continued

 This used to be the fish picture. I washed it off with soap and water. I used magenta and ultramarine, moved it around the paper to cover it all, then spattered some yellow while it was wet.

I used some bottle lids to create some circles and a jar lid for the moon. I tried running a fork with some paint on it on some parts when partially dry. I wet some string and let it sit on the dried paint for a few minutes.

My very expensive supplies: spray bottle, string, lids, fork. (If you can find the fork, you're amazing)






After it was dry, I lifted out the moon and the figures, using water and absorbing the paint with cotton balls and tissue.




I used a little teal to fill in the moons. For the figures, I used alizarin, yellow, and some teal.
The hair is ultramarine and teal (or turquoise)


I decided to change the way the large figure faced and fix the hair on the little figure.
Just used water on a small brush. 













Sunday, September 4, 2022

YUPO with watercolor only

Have some fun just playing with yupo!


                                           

While I have several blogs on using yupo, most of them are with a fluid acrylic pour underneath (a process called "independent layering"), and not with watercolor only. This one will be dedicated to ways to use yupo with just watercolor.

(the other process can be seen on May 22 and 31 of 2018)

YUPO (I've always pronounced it yoo-po) is made of polypropylene, and is a slick white non-porous surface that can be used front or back. It picks up grease easily from fingertips, so you wash it completely with soap and water or alcohol. Otherwise you will run into areas that resist the watercolor because of fingerprints.

You can experiment with the paper until you get the hang of it. You can always wash it off with soap and water and start over again. (Try not to use a soap with "moisturizer" in it)

Advantages of yupo: 

1. Colors stay bright because the paint is not absorbed into the paper, but sits on top of the paper.

2. You get a lot of fun textures and reactions when one color touches another.

3. You can easily "erase" parts you don't like with just water.

4. You can paint large backgrounds and then "carve out" your shapes with water. 



Disadvantages:

1. Because paint sits on top, it takes a long time to dry.

2. You don't have a lot of control over where the paint goes.

3. You cannot "glaze" because  a second layer of paint will move the first layer.

4. You shouldn't erase...it will leave a residue on the paper.


Here are a few ideas:

Experiment #1

Lightly draw a sketch with WATERCOLOR pencils. These will erase with the water, so you don't leave residue on the paper. You don't have to match the color of pencil exactly with the paint either. 


Fill in the red color on the apple. Don't water down your paint too much. Here I've used a warm red, Alizarin, and a purple to paint the apple. (Or cherry) Let the paint dry. The longer it dries on its own,
the more interesting reactions you will have. You can, however, dry with a LOW blow dryer. High heat will warp the paper permanently.


Remove paint around the stem and leaf. Also lift a highlight. 


Paint in the stem and leaf. When dry you can use a thin brush or watercolor pencils to make veins in the leaf. Paint in a shadow when the apple is dry. 


Experiment #2

Use watercolor pencils to draw and color a small image. Use a small wet brush to dissolve the pencil.
Here is a morning glory. When using pencils DO NOT press hard. It will dent the paper and make it hard to paint over it.


Experiment #3

Wet the yupo lightly or spray lightly. Drop several colors of paint onto the paper, and
tip the paper side to side, top to bottom, to make the paint run. 


You can either let it dry or try other things, like run a squeegie (or credit card edge)
through the paint to make lines or trees. 


Experiment # 4
(Making a "flat wash" look)

With a large brush, spread your paint onto the paper. Use a small sponge paint roller
to spread the paint from edge to edge. This will give your paint a smoother, more even appearance.


For texture, lightly spray a few water drops. If sprayed while wet, the water drops will
spread the paint a bit like salt. If sprayed on dry paint, you pat them off with a tissue or paper towel.


Experiment #5

Use a stamp. Spread a little paint on a stamp and stamp into the paper.


Experiment # 6

Make a background and let it dry. With a damp brush, carefully remove a shape and blot it.
Paint in the shape. Dry it.


Add a few more details after the paint dries. 


I made the aquarium picture by making the coral area first and drying it. (using the 3rd method)
After it was dry, I removed shapes and painted them in. 

To do this bird:


Make a background of your choice. For this one, I used yellows and blues, 
used a roller over the entire thing, then put on some webbing for texture.
I had some gold powder, which makes the color look a bit off.

When it was nearly dry, I used a brush to wipe out the branch.


I used a cotton ball to remove the main shape while it was still slightly damp.
 Then I dried the entire thing.


I used cerulean blue for the wings and tail; light orange for the belly; ultramarine for accents.
I painted the belly first and let it dry. I then painted the head and wings and tail with blue.
Dry. 
With a tiny brush I removed white lines between the flight feathers. I made tiny brush marks to indicate downy feathers. With a darker orange I used the tiny brush to make the feathers on the chest. I removed the white around the eye. I used neutral tint to paint in the thin dark lines, the legs, etc.

The branch is burnt orange and ultramarine blue painted on the bottom only. The berries are alizarin painted right over the green to dull the color. 

There is a little pale gray underneath the bird, made with orange and ultramarine. The beak is a blue/gray made from ultramarine and orange with some dark accents (neutral tint)

Finally, I took a thin brush and removed paint from around the head and back of the bird to 
make him stand out just a bit more.


Once you think your painting is at a "keeper" stage, you need to spray lightly with
a sealer to keep the paint from getting wiped off.

Experiment with "tools" you might find around the house to remove or add paint in interesting ways. A plastic fork or a hair pick for creating squiggles works well. Webbing can make interesting patterns. You can use salt, but I prefer the look of spritzing with water for yupo. The lids from your water bottles (or milk bottles or jars) can be set on the damp paint until it dries to create perfect circles. You can set string on top of the wet paint until it dries. You can use masking fluid, just as you do for other papers. Just be cautious about actually scratching the paper, because that leaves a permanent dent in the paper.