Thursday, September 20, 2018

WATERCOLOR PENCILS TECHNIQUES


WATERCOLOR PENCIL TECHNIQUES


Today's lesson was about some water color techniques. Here are some web sites/youtubes
that can help refresh your memory:

Mr. Otter Studio 4 WC pencil techniques

 Bob Davies , How to Use Watercolor Pencils

Bob Davies mallard duck

Frugal Crafter – Daffodil

Julie Davis, Cheap Joe’s--a time lapse 

The name of the book I showed pictures from is Water-Soluble Colored Pencils by Gary Greene. (Northlight Books 1999)





Square 1: color some pencil on the top of the square. Wet it and create a graded wash. When that is dry, try lifting some of it with a stiff brush.

Square 2: Apply dry pencil on the top, and another on the bottom. Wet the colors and blend ink the center. When dry (you can use a blow dryer), GLAZE a third color over it to show that you can create a beautiful glaze.

Square 3: Practice dry strokes: cross hatching, small circles, stipling, etc.

Square 4:Wet the paper. Use sandpaper on a dry pencil to create texture on the square.

Square 5: Sandpaper some dry pencil on a wet square. Then, using a flat brush, drag the brush across the shavings to create an effect that looks like birch tree bark.

Square 6: With a damp round brush pull some color off a pencil. At the top, paint color with it.
Wet the bottom of the square, and pull color off a pencil. Paint wet into wet.

Square 7: With a damp FLAT brush, load color from one color on one side of the brush, and another color on the other side of  the brush. Paint a stroke, like a rainbow, on dry paper. Then try it on wet paper.

Square 8: Create a "Palette" of colors. Just apply dry pencil in a circle, over and over, until you have a thick layer of pencil on the paper. Use several colors. Wet a brush, dip into a color on the palette, and paint as you would regular paint. (In last square)

Square 9: Wet the paper. Draw directly onto the wet paper with pencil. It creates very dark color.

Square 10 and 11: Color a few areas of pencil. Spray with water and let it drip. 

Square 12: Paint in from your palette in square 8.



The above picture uses at least five different methods. (1) The background is wet, then color is pulled off a blue and green pencil and applied wet into wet. (2) The blue and purple fish is colored by coloring dry pencil onto dry paper. I have used several colors together before wetting to blend. (3) While the blue fish is wet, I SANDED to create some texture. (4) One the blue and orange fish, I wet the paper, then used two blue pencils to create squiggly lines across left to right. Then I wet over it again to blend a little. (5) I LIFTED hilights on the top of the yellow fish and orange clown fish. 


WHY WATERCOLOR PENCILS?
1.       They are easy to travel with.
2.       Easy to get smaller details.
3.       Can be used dry like colored pencil or
moistened to look like watercolor.
4.       Can make corrections to over-worked paper.
5.       They can be subtle or vibrant.
6.       Use with yupo paper when paint won’t stay
7.       Can draw with them first, then paint over.
8.       Can use in sketch book, and come back a month later to paint
9.       CONTROL over paint
10.   Less likely to accidentally spatter
11.   Paper usually gets less wet.
12.   Can be used in combination with water color, colored pencil,  or by itself
13.   Adjacent areas can be painted sooner bc they dry faster
14.   Very little mess, clean-up
15. Great with kids!


SOME TIPS
1.       Wet from white or light to the darkest to avoid losing whites
2.       Don’t over use the water.
3.       I try to use two or three colors together for more natural color.
4.       Use water color paper

WHAT BRANDS SHOULD I BUY?

You might watch Steve Mitchell's youtube on watercolor pencils. He favors 
       Faber-Castell's Albrecht Duhrer set. I generally use Derwents, often their Inktense line, which dries like ink instead of watercolor. There are several very good brands: Prisma, Caran d'Ache, Kohinoor, etal.  The differences lie in, first, the solubility of the pigment, and second, the intensity of the colors. 
Whatever you use, be sure to make COLOR SWATCHES of your set, because the dry color looks very different from the wet color. You can buy pencils individually or in sets. 

Wednesday, September 19, 2018

Portrait Repair

Here is an example of a painting that needed some help. I started this in watercolor and loved most of it.(first picture) But I'd started this not knowing that this surface would not lift. (It was Arches board). I had used miskit on the hair, and did not like the effect, and could not lift it off.
Someone suggested doing the hair with pastels, which I'd never tried before. So I did.
 (second picture)

I am pretty happy with the result now. My youngest grandson. 







Note pastel used on hair and some of the green shirt.


First Aid for Water Color


Some helpful tips to ‘save’ a painting.

The first 9 are taken from Birgit O’Connor’s article, “Watercolor SOS”, in Watercolor Artist, August 2018, page 20-24. This is just a summary, but see the article for more details.

1.       PROBLEM: Studio Lighting Issues. Birgit O’Connor suggests full-spectrum natural lighting is best, so you want to come as close to that as possible. Use compact florescent bulbs or LED bulbs. Basically, you need a clean WHITE light cclosest to daylight without being too blue, 5000K should be fine.
2.       PROBLEM: Messy, undefined edges. This is a mistake made by painting an area too soon, efore the adjacent areas has had time to dry completely. SOLUTION: walk away and let the painting dry completely. If you need to clean up a messy edge, dry it completely, and use a wet on dry technique to clean it up.
3.       PROBLEM: Trouble determining values. There is a saying: value does all the work, but color gets all the credit. The quickest way is to make a black and white photocopy. (I often take a photo on my cell phone and turn it into black and white.)Or do a small thumbnail sketch in pencil or single paint color, such as gray. The other way is to hold a sheet of RED PLASTIC OR ACETATE over a subject. The red color shows the ranges of values.
4.       PROBLEM: Unintentional blooms. These occur when parts of the painting dry more quickly than others.SOLUTION: allow the painting to dry completely. Then try to lift or soften edges with a melamine foam eraser. Or, while still damp, add more water and allow the puddle to move around the surface to spread the water more evenly.
5.       PROBLEM: hard rings of color. These occur when you apply and reapply too much water, lifting pigment and pushing to edges.             SOLUTION: Dry completely, then reapply color in layers.
6.       PROBLEM: Muddy colors. SOLUTIONS: * DON’T MIX TOO MANY COLORS AT A TIME. * Don’t overmix colors on palette. * Work with the most transparent colors.* Avoid mixing cadmiums, opaques, and earth colors. * Don’t overuse mixed complements. * Be aware that every color has a warm or cool bias. * Allow each layer of color to dry completely before applying the next.
7.       PROBLEM: COLOR MATCHING ISSUES: Each brand of paint may have different names for each color. But also, they may use a different formula for the same name. SOLUTION: learn to read a tube of color.
a.       Pigment code: Tells the pigment(s) name(s) used
b.       Transparency code: Transparent, semi-, or opaque
c.       Lightfastness rating: you want a I or II. It refers to the permanence or chemical stability of a color, especially whether it fades over time with light.
d.       Series number: This indicates PRICE. Series 1 is lowest priced.
8.       PROBLEM: STRAY BRUSH HAIR IN WET PAINT. SOLUTION: Don’t leave it and don’t try to remove it with a fingernail, which can dent your paper. Use a small stiff synthetic brush, like a #3 round, to gently lift it out.
9.       PROBLEM: THE ENTIRE PAINTING IS A MESS.  Birgit O’connor suggests removing all color by placing it under running water using a faucet or hose or submerging it in a tub. While the surface is still wet, use a large soft brush, or Mr. Clan Magic Eraser, to gently wipe surface. If you press too hard you can damage paper fibers.
AND THAT BRINGS US TO THE CHALLENGE: CAN THIS PAINTING BE SAVED?

Here are more ideas you can use when you run into problem #9. You are ready to throw this thing in the trash. But before you do, ask if there is something redeeming about the painting, other than the fact you have poured hours of work into it.

1.       CROP.
2.       SOAK OLD PAINT OFF
3.       WHITE OUT
4.       USE BLACK OR VERY DARK PAINTS TO TURN IT INTO ABSTRACT
5.       USE FLUID ACRYLIC OR GOUACHE TO RECLAIM YOUR WHITES
6.       USE COLLAGE
7.       COVER PARTS WITH RICE PAPERS
8.       USE YOUR COLORED PENCILS
9.       TRY GOING OVER PARTS WITH PASTELS
10.   COVER WITH MAT MEDIUM OR GESSO
11.   RUB WITH A SMOOTH STONE (for paper that has become rough from overuse)
12.   USE IT AS AN OPPORTUNITY TO TRY SOMETHING NEW
a.       Stenciling
b.       Stamping
c.       Gels and mediums
13.   TEXTURIZE
14.   CUT IT UP INTO BOOKMARKS